Open Slot Mortise And Tenon Joint
- Open Slot Mortise And Tenon Joint Pain
- How To Cut Mortise And Tenon Joints
- Open Slot Mortise And Tenon Joint Tool
- How To Make Mortise And Tenon Joints
- Mortise And Tenon How To
- Open Slot Mortise And Tenon Joint Machine
I’m wondering what the wisdom of experience has to say about the best glue for mortise & tenon joints in a chair. I’m new enough at this that some of the joints are, while snug, short on contact between the tenon and mortise due to my still-growing skills (the mortise walls aren’t as smooth as you’d like to see.). When making a through mortise and tenon joint, be sure to measure the areas to be notched and slotted before making any cuts. You can make an open mortise and tenon joint by cutting the slot or mortise only partway into one piece of wood.
A mortiser or morticer is a specialized woodworkingmachine used to cut square or rectangular holes in a piece of lumber (timber), such as a mortise in a mortise and tenon joint.
Synonyms for tenons in Free Thesaurus. Antonyms for tenons. 3 words related to tenon: mortise-and-tenon joint, mortise joint, projection. What are synonyms for tenons? Mortise and tenon joints revisited: An ill-fated attempt at working with a jig manufacturer. Background When I wrote my joint strength test article, I concluded that the mortise and tenon joint was slightly stronger than a multiple dowel joint. I then went on to say that the multiple dowel joints I used were similar to those produced by a particular doweling jig.
Square chisel mortiser[edit]
The square chisel mortiser (also called hollow chisel mortiser), similar to a drill press in many respects, combines the cutting of a four-sided chisel with the action of a drill bit in the center. The bit clears out most of the material to be removed, and the chisel ensures the edges are straight and clean. This device was invented in 1874 by Robert and Ralph Greenlee (founders of the Greenlee Company).
The first square chisel lever mortisers were purely manual and relied on the operator pulling down on a large lever to push the chisel through the timber. An improvement was to place a rotating cylindrical auger inside a hollow chisel. This helps to clear chips up the centre of the chisel. As electric power became easily available, the auger developed as a drill bit and became the main means of removing waste timber from the mortise. These mortisers now used much shorter hand levers, as the manual work was only in cleaning up the mortise to be square-cornered.
Play cool cats slot machine. Square chisel mortising bits can also be fitted to normal drill presses using a mortising attachment.
The Greenlee Company still manufactures mortisers, as do a large number of other power toolmanufacturers. It is a common tool in the woodshop of professional woodworkers, but because of its specialized nature, many amateur woodworkers would not make enough use of it to justify the moderately high cost and space this tool takes up in the woodshop. Some smaller and less expensive models, suitable for cutting only narrow mortises are available.
Horizontal mortiser (slot mortiser)[edit]
A more recent innovation is the horizontal mortiser, which incorporates a router mounted statically on its side with the workpiece clamped to a multi-axis sliding table. This type of mortiser can produce either traditional mortise and tenon pairs, however it excels at floating (or 'loose') tenons. A floating tenon is where both the pieces of wood that are to be joined have aligned mortises cut into them and a separate piece of wood is milled into a fitted tenon which is glued into the two mortises.
Chain mortiser[edit]
For cutting larger mortises such as those used in timber frame construction, chain mortisers are commonly used. A chain with cutters (similar to a chainsaw chain) rotating within a frame clamped to the work is successively plunged into the workpiece to mortise out the required volume. The Makita 7104L is such a tool. These chains are made in varying widths, with numbers of chains in parallel. The teeth are often solid or tipped tungsten carbide. They are thus very expensive, sometimes as much as the rest of the mortiser.
Other methods of cutting mortises[edit]
Traditionally, a mortise would be cut by hand, using a chisel and mallet. However, due to the precision of fit required for a mortise and tenon joint, this can be a difficult and time-consuming task.
Other tools such as a router could be used for the task, but the router usually requires special attachments, jigs or templates and the router bit leaves rounded corners that might need to be squared by hand with a chisel. Alternatively, the tenon can be rounded with a rasp to achieve an equally strong joint.
For cutting small mortises, a normal drill bit can be used. However, for larger mortises, a common type of bit in modern mortisers is a Harry Watt square drill bit, in which a bit with a Reuleaux triangle cross section is allowed to 'wobble' while it rotates within a square with rounded corners[citation needed]. This type of bit removes all but the corners of the material to be removed, leaving very little to be cut by the chisel.
See also[edit]
- Rotary broaching, a method of drilling square holes in steel.
Open Slot Mortise And Tenon Joint Pain
External links[edit]
- History of the Greenlee Company - includes the history of the mortiser
- Reuleaux triangle on MathWorld - includes an animation of the action of a Harry Watt square drill bit
Related Articles
- 1 Basic Wood Joints
- 2 Make Furniture Without Screws or Nails
- 3 Types of Wooden Drawer Joints
- 4 Ways to Connect Plywood
Wood joinery is an ancient craft that marries pieces of wood, allowing for the construction of furniture, cabinetry, flooring and framing. Wood joints differ in ease of production, inherent strength and purpose. Differing joints are used in specific applications because all wood joints are not created equal. There are pluses and minuses to each method of joining, and in each species of wood joined.
How To Cut Mortise And Tenon Joints
The Butt Joint
By far the easiest joint to create is the butt joint. This joint butts one piece of wood against another and relies upon wood glue to hold the pieces together. End grain is joined to long grain in a weak configuration that must be reinforced with pins, plates or dowels for the connection to stand up to lateral pressure. Without the addition of stabilizers, you can easily break apart a butt joint using only your hands.
The Dovetail Joint
Dovetail joints are commonly seen connecting drawer fronts to the sides. A set of pins are cut to extend from the end of one board and connect with a set of tails cut into the end of an adjoining board. The result is an extremely strong joint that resists being pulled apart. Once glued, the trapezoidal-shaped pins and tails are permanently fastened without the need for nails or other reinforcement. This joint requires precision cutting and can be difficult for a beginner to make well.
Mortise and Tenon
To make strong corner joints for sturdy frames for windows, doors, beds and tables, a mortise and tenon is often used. A rectangular slot (mortise) is cut into the exact center of an end piece of lumber to accept a fitted protuberance (tenon), thereby producing a strong, neat joint. Once glued and fitted, the pieces will not move and are difficult to separate. Precise measurement is needed to ensure the mortise is exactly one third the thickness of the wood to avoid mortise split or tenon breakage.
Tongue and Groove
Open Slot Mortise And Tenon Joint Tool
Joining wood edge to edge to form tabletops, paneling or connected hardwood or laminate flooring, requires a tongue and groove joint. The edge of one piece is slotted or grooved along its entire length to accept a tongue cut along the edge of an adjoining piece. Since lateral pressure is not an issue, the boards are drawn close together and stay that way. Glue may or may not be applied depending upon the product used. Tongue and groove joints are easier to measure and produce using a router with depth setting capability.
References (2)
How To Make Mortise And Tenon Joints
About the Author
Kevin Ann Reinhart, a retired teacher-librarian, has written professionally since 1976. Reinhart first published in 'Writers' Undercover' Cambridge Writers Collective II. She has a bachelor's degree in English and religious studies from the University of Waterloo and a librarian specialist certificate from Queen's University and the University of Toronto.